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Step 1. Always Begin with an upper corner unit. Measure from the floor and place a mark at 52" near the corner; this will represent the bottom of the upper cabinets.
Using a level, continue this line out from the corner for the length of the cabinet run.
Note: If a soffit is present, ensure it is level and plumb throughout; if all is plumb and square, use the soffit as the upper guide. If there is a low spot, strike a mark at
that point; this will become the benchmark point for the top edge of the ceiling cabinets. Using a level, strike a level line to the corner to represent the bottom of the
Step 2. Using a stud finder, locate the studs along one wall from the corner and mark the studs with a pencil below the line representing the bottom of the upper
Major Hint: If there is no one available to assist in the holding of the cabinets, build a support box or install a temporary guide board to support the cabinets as they are lifted
into place. Use two or three screws and attach it to wall studs. Ensure it is level; the cabinets will rest on it; after the cabinets are installed, it will be removed.
Step 3. Remove the doors and shelves from the corner unit in preparation to lift it into position.
- How To Install Wall Cabinets As Base Cabinets
There is no hard and fast rule that says you have to use wall cabinets for the upper cabinets and the base cabinets for the 1. Set your cabinets on the floor where you want to install them. Make a scant outline on the wall and along the floor with a pencil. Remove the cabinet and then find the studs
lower cabinets. It is just a common configuration for standard kitchens. However, there are lots of uses for wall cabinets to
be used as base cabinets. Think about using them for window seats under a sunny window wall. Maybe try lining a thin
hallway with thin wall cabinets. If you don't need counter space just fill a whole wall with wall cabinets, or use a thin
countertop instead of the 24-inch deep cabinet.
in the wall. You can use a stud finder if you have one, or just a long thin nail that you poke every few inches until you locate the studs. Mark the studs with the pencil.
2. Lay a 2x4 flat on the floor the same width of your cabinet along the front edge, but set back about 1/4 of an inch. Set one flat on the floor flush with the wall where the
back of the cabinet will sit. This will lift the cabinet off the floor a little. Screw both of them in place with the wood screws. Sink the screws into the wood so they are flush
and not sticking up.
3. Set the cabinet on the 2x4 base. Mark the inside of the cabinet where the studs are you found earlier. Drill a pilot hole through the cabinet and then screw a wood screw
into. the hole. Place two screws on the top edge and two on the bottom edge. Your cabinet is now secured with the wall.
4. Drill two more pilot holes through the cabinet and into the front 2x4 on the floor. Screw in two more wood screws. This will hold the cabinet securely in place.
5. Measure the area at the bottom of the cabinet and cut a piece of cabinet veneer to cover the 2x4 to match the cabinet. Glue it in place and secure with finish nails.
- How to Put Up Filler Strips for Kitchen Cabinets
Details matter when installing kitchen cabinets and filling voids between cabinets,Step 1
or between cabinets and the wall. Using cabinet filler strips, or scribes built from
the same material as cabinet faces, is the best way to accomplish this. But how do
you measure, cut and install cabinet scribes? Consider a few pointers that anyone
with a few power tools and some building know how can use to achieve results.
Measure for scribes by measuring the face of the cabinet from top to bottom. This will be the length of your scribe.
Gaps are frequently not truly rectangular and be more narrow on top or bottom. Since the gap is typically between two flat surfaces (e.g. two cabinets or a cabinet and Step 3
a wall), measure the gap at the top and bottom ends.
Mark these measurements on your material; use ¾-inch plywood or hardwood finished similar to the cabinet. Use one straight edge to reduce cuts. Cut your board to Step 4
length with a circular or handsaw. If the scribe is an equal rectangle and a tablesaw is handy, simply rip to width.
Cut tapered scribes carefully with a bandsaw, jigsaw or coping saw. Clamp the piece down using a C clamp and a square of cardboard to protect the finish, and cut as Step 5
close to a straight line as possible between the two points.
For any inconsistencies in wall surfaces, such as curves, bulges or bumps, tap the scribe into place without glue, and mark it by running a pencil flat against the wall
and transferring the profile of the wall to the scribe. Remove the scribe, cut away the excess and proceed with installation.
Apply a small amount of wood glue on the edge of the scribe that will rest against the cabinet. Fit the scribe into place, tapping gently with a rubber mallet if needed.Step 2
Attach to the cabinet with nails or screws from the inside of the cabinet. Pre-drill for screws to avoid splitting. Screws work best for tight seams.Step 3
Repeat for the other side if working between cabinets. Make sure to glue both edges, and be careful not to allow screws to pull cabinets out of alignment with other Step 4
units, including the countertop. If this happens, remove screws, re-set the cabinet and re-cut the scribe for a better fit.
Use painter's caulk at the wall to fill seams for a nice, clean finish. Use wood caulk for open seams between cabinets. Make sure to keep a damp rag handy to remove
excess caulk before it dries.
- How to Install Kitchen Peninsula Cabinets Without a Wall
Installing kitchen peninsula cabinets without a wall to serve as a guide can be challenging.Step 1
However, the end result is a kitchen that has much more work and storage space--which
is generally in short supply in most kitchens. Peninsula cabinets are cabinets that project
into the room, are open on three sides and remain connected to the base cabinets. They
can be a functional addition to many kitchens with adequate floorspace.
Choose the cabinets. Make sure your order includes a finished panel for the backside, which is not generally standard with most cabinets. Find out if you need to order Step 2
a kickplate to set the cabinets on or if they have an integrated kickplate. The kickplate is the area at the base of a cabinet that is set in from the cabinet. Some come
integrated as part of the cabinetry and some are a separate piece altogether. Order cabinet countertops that are finished on both sides and the end. Avoid ordering
countertops that have an integrated backsplash.
Line up cabinets to see how they feel in the room. Make adjustments for placement before you've attached cabinets to the floor. Work with the cabinets until you like Step 3
the line and how they fit within the space. Most peninsula cabinets are installed at a 90 degree angle, though there is no hard and fast rule.
Mark the space on the floor where you want to install the peninsula cabinets. Make sure the cabinets are level and lined up correctly. Use shims if necessary to level the Step 4
cabinets. Attach kickplate to the floor at joists with 2-inch screws. Attach cabinets to kickplate if needed by setting the cabinet on top of the kickplate base and
screwing into the base with 1-½-inch screws.
Have countertops installed by professionals. Leave off the interior shelves, doors, and knobs until the countertops have been installed to protect them for incidental
damage. Once the installation of the countertops is complete, you can attach shelves, doors and knobs to put the finishing touches on the kitchen peninsula.
TOOLS YOU NEED
- Electric Drill
- Measuring tape
- Masking tape
- Wooden Shims
Step 1 Set your cabinets in place on the floor in the position you would like them to sit. Make
sure you have saved enough space for the stove, the dishwasher and the refrigerator, if they
are going to be included in this installation. It is best if you can do a dry run with everything in
Step 2 Mark out the layout with masking tape and write on the tape the label of the cabinet or
appliance going in its place. Mark down the measurements of the items on the tape.
Step 3 Remove the doors and drawers so you can gain access to the inside of the cabinets.
This will allow you to clamp them together. Set all the extra pieces aside.
Step 4 Make sure the floor is level. If you find that there is a noticeable difference, use shims to
level the cabinets. Make sure you
check the level in both directions. If the whole room is slanted, make a mark on the wall to
show the high point with a line to the low point, and install the cabinets along that line.
Step 5 Mark the wall above each cabinet area where the wall studs are located. You will need to
drill into them for a secure installation. Use chalk or masking tape so you can remove it after the
cabinets are in place. Shim the cabinets up, if necessary, to meet the level line.
Step 6 Drill a hole through the mounting rail inside the cabinet, about 3/4 inch down from the
top. Go through the cabinet and into the wood stud. Screw the cabinet in place with the
Step 7 Set the next cabinet in place and clamp it together with the installed cabinet, making sure
it is sitting straight and level. Drill a hole through the inside, through the end panels, and screw
them together. Remove the clamps.
Step 8 Install the rest of the cabinets in the same method. When they are all installed, put the
drawers back on their slides and the doors back on the cabinets.
The cabinet design is complete, the cabinets have been ordered, now they have arrived on site; it is now time to
install the kitchen cabinets. Using the layout plan, match up the cabinets to where they will be positioned in the room
and follow these steps:
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standardized heights and depths.
Upper cabinets are 12"-deep and range in width from 9" to 36" (in 3"
increments). Standard height is 30", but you can install 36"- or 42"-tall
cabinets to gain extra storage if your kitchen ceiling height permits the taller
Base cabinets are typically 24"-deep and 34-1/2"-high, so a 1-1/2"-thick
countertop brings the final counter height to 36" -- an industry standard for
cabinets and appliances. Base cabinet widths generally mirror the width of the
upper cabinets above them (6" to 36") and can include all drawers or a door
and drawer configuration. Visual proportions dictate that door width never
exceeds door height, so wider cabinet units will always have two or more
Tall utility/ pantry cabinets, often used as pantries or broom closets, are
available in 84", 90", and 96" heights, and come in standard wall or base
These standard dimensions apply to all framed cabinets. Traditional framed
cabinets have a face frame that provides a great deal of structural support to
the cabinet. Door hinges mount to the frame and doors and drawer fronts
typically overlay the frame.